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Ankara, contrary to what a few believe, is the capital of Türkiye but it’s only been the capital for roughly 100 years. Like most capital cities it has got that vibrant modern and bustling atmosphere while at the same time retaining places that seem to take you way back in time.
Previously known as Angora, Ankara is located far from any coastline on a plateau about 1000 feet above sea level giving it cold and snowy winters and hot summers.
My trip lasted two nights and one day but let me explain how doable that is with all my travel and two nights’accommodation costing at most 5,300 Tl (approximately £100 or €115 ) for an exciting, adventurous yet relaxing trip.
My personal recommendation would be to get the coach from your location or, in my case the train from Selçuk to Izmir. This allowed me to get the sleeper train from Izmir Basmane station direct to Ankara arriving refreshed the next morning and allowing me to spent a full day leisurely wandering around Ankara before catching the returning sleeper train that same evening. Currently the most expensive sleeper ticket costs 2,080 Tl one way but that’s for private solo use of the sleeper cabin. There are a wide range of discounted tickets readily available with a reduced fare if two book a sleeping cabin, further reductions for return fares as well as age related discounts etc, etc. If you consider the full fare of 2080 Tl covers your transport from Izmir to Ankara and what is in effect the use of a hotel room, this for me, is extremely good value especially if you qualify for any of the discounts.
I had mentioned in a previous post that National Geographic magazine had an article saying “Turkey’s rail network remains one of the country’s best kept tourist secrets, still rarely utilised by foreign tourists.” That comment remains true despite the recent inflationary rises.
I’m convinced you will be amazed what you can achieve on a short visit. So far I have been lucky enough to use local trains from Selçuk to visit Izmir, Istanbul, Ankara, Konya, Adana, Bandirma & Denizli (for Pamukkale ) and lots of places in between. Bear in mind that on this trip I limited my self to a day in Ankara but if time permitted you should consider adding an extra night or two to truly enjoy the shopping, the restaurants, the bars and other sights in this city.
Unlike a previous trip when the train conductor leaned out the door of the sleeper carriage as I was walking down the platform and waved while shouting ‘Pat Curtis?’ For a split second I glowed with pride that somehow, I had been recognised until I realised he had the list of passengers in his hand and it wasn’t hard for him to pick out the only yabanci heading for his train. I wasn’t one of the Kardashian clan after all.
My journey started by travelling to Izmir Basmane Train Station. My best way route from Kusadasi was to pay 85 Tl on the Dolmus to Selçuk. As I said getting a coach from your location to Izmir could be your preferred option. From Selçuk I caught the train direct to Basmane Station. Note there are two transport options at Selçuk station…. the Izban metro which can take you to Alsançak Station / Terminal in Izmir and the inter city train which terminates in Basmane station. You want to catch the train not the Izban. A full price single ticket from Selçuk to Basmane costs 100 Tl but as I mentioned the discount on the day meant I was only charged 60 Tl - far less than my Dolmus fare.
The surprisingly comfortable sleeper train departs from Basmane station at 19:05 which allows you plenty of time to get to Izmir. I’m not a fan of early starts. You will arrive into Ankara Gar the next morning at 08:46. My sleeper ticket provided me with a reserved private cabin which can accommodate two (check the photos ) but if like me, you are traveling solo your ticket price will automatically be inclusive of a small single supplement and the cabin will be for your sole use.
The cabin ( which can be locked from the inside) is spacious with a large window giving you great views as you meander through the countryside and pass villages. In the cabin there’s a fridge ( with a few complimentary snacks) an extending table and two armchair style seats. Recessed into the wall are two ‘premade up’ pull out beds. There is a restaurant car that can get lively in the evenings, but the kitchen selection is limited. I always take supplementary refreshments and other odds and ends for a picnic but before pulling into Ankara the next morning I did avail of a light breakfast in the restaurant carriage.
I arrived into Ankara Gar (station ) quite refreshed just before 09:00 am and I jumped into a taxi at the taxi rank right outside the station entrance. I have to say I have visited Ankara a few times and I have never had an issue with the taxi drivers here. Whilst I did not use it this time there are safe luggage storage lockers at the station where you can park your case or rucksack which cost from 130 TL for 12 hours.
My first planned stop was Ankara Castle which was only a 10-minute taxi ride away. The castle walls are worth a closer inspection as they have bits and pieces of recycled stone and carvings collected from the Hittites, Romans and Byzantine times and reused to build the castle walls. I was grateful for the taxi ride as while it may be a bit of an exaggeration to say I felt like I was on the roof of Ankara I knew my stroll down through the narrow streets was going to be preferable to having to hike up.
The castle area is thoroughly old Ankara. In truth the castle, as an attractive tourist spot, is just OK but it’s really the surrounding cobbled streets with their open air Bazzar atmosphere and museums that’s the main attraction for me. The crumbling Ottoman style wood and mud street houses and shops – many are beautifully restored since my first visit - are just begging you to wander around.
I chilled out with a nice cup of tea in a courtyard within the castle walls which was served from one of the biggest tea urns I have ever seen then I meandered the short distance from the castle to the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations.
I will not dwell too long on the, must see, Museum of Anatolian Civilisations as others have described it at length but suffice to say it has unique showstoppers with displays as early as the Palaeolithic era to the present day all arranged chronologically. What I will highlight is the private, nonprofit making (not state owned - so museum card does not work here) Rhami Koç museum which is just outside the castle entrance. This is really unique and located in two old adjoining restored buildings. One of these buildings dates from the Ottoman period and one from the early days of the Turkish Republic. The museum’s ‘electric’ collection includes old cars, planes, trains, agricultural machines, marine based items, toy models and much, much more. Some sections of the museum are laid out as working streets so you can walk in and out of old workplaces, shops, doctors’ surgery, dental clinic ( the manually operated dentist drill made me pause ) cobblers, black smiths, apothecary etc,etc. They are set out as if they are waiting for your custom.
If visiting do not walk past the jumbled heap of old household items, lamps, washing machines, TVs etc. For the life of me I still can’t work out how this combination of 539 objects representing Ataturk’s life were assembled in such a manner that when viewed from a certain angle morphed into an artwork mirroring Ataturk’s image…. anamorphosis it’s called. My photos do it no justice.
From there I strolled down the old style cobblestones alleyways and walkways catching the odd glimpse of the modern Ankara in between the gaps in the buildings. This area is just full of bustling steep narrow streets packed with shops, market stalls, coffee & tea houses and garment sellers …. lots and lots of clothes wholesalers and retailers.
I loved the old-world charm with its mixture of restored and run down townhouses and shops. You will have no problem finding bargains as it’s like an open-air street bazaar and a great place to get some souvenir shopping done. You’ll find lots of copper goods, handmade jewellery, antiques, ornaments and even clothes all for reasonable prices.
I visited one of the many lokantasi here for lunch and feeling
refreshed I jumped into a nearby taxi for another short 10-minute ride to Anitkabir. Anitkabir is an impressive, and I mean really impressive, mausoleum and museum dedicated to Kemal Ataturk, the founding father and the first president of the Republic of Türkiye. Sitting on a hill this is a stunning structure covering over 750,000 square metres. The taxi dropped me off and I headed up a long walkway lined with lion sculptures called The Road of Lions which lead me to the Hall of Honour. My timing was extremely lucky as right in front of me, in the ceremonial plaza, I was privileged enough to witness the pomp and ceremony of the changing of the guards.
In the Hall of Honour is Ataturk’s tomb. In the rooms and alcoves around the plaza there’s an interesting collection of historical artefacts associated with Ataturk including his car, pleasure boat along with more personal items, medals, wardrobe and even gifts presented to him during his lifetime. At the other end of the plaza is the burial site of İsmet İnönü, the second President of Turkey.
From Anitkabir it’s a 2.5 Km walk to Kizilay Square but I found the Ulus metro station at the foot of the hill and got the metro to Kizilay metro stop. As an alternative it would be just as easy to get a taxi.
I would describe Kizilay Square as the main junction for the whole of Ankara. This area is the equivalent, for me, of Times Square in New York or Taksim in Istanbul.
This square is surrounded by a number of large shopping centres. In the plaza there is no shortage of street food while the narrow-pedestrianized streets have bistros, cosy cafes and more up-market restaurants along with lots of different vendors and no shortage of fresh fish stalls. The square has a number of fountains and water features and a welcomed oasis in the shape of a large tree lined park with locals sitting on the grass chatting and picnicking. Sakarya Street nearby is one of many that are lined with bars.
Time was leisurely slipping by and I had the 20:00 sleeper waiting. This would arrive back into Izmir at a civilised 09:30 the following morning. I used my Ankara Kart, not out of necessity but as I already had it as part of my collection of Türkiye Travel Cards, to catch the train from the Kizilay Metro station to the Maltepe Metro stop for the short walk over the pedestrian over-pass to the main train station and my Ankara to Izmir train.
As a part time expat I found this trip a great way to see the inner countryside, villages and of course the country’s capital ( never mind Ataturk’s grave ). My total travel costs, including all my taxis, trains, and not forgetting two nights accommodation, was near £100 (€115 ) or 5,300 Tl. It would be hard to match that for value
